Look up when you visit Cork, and see the eclectic mix of roofs influenced by Georgian architecture, trade with Europe, rebellion, and not inconsiderable religious devotion.

While getting your bearings, and before planning your sight-seeing route, do bear in mind that Cork itself is quite small and everything of note in the city is within a 20 minute walk.

Built on marshland, the city sits above 12 channels of the river Lee with a further two channels now bounding the city centre. In the middle of this is Cork’s main thoroughfare, St. Patrick Street, an attractively wide boulevard that has had a chequered history.

Burned down in the early 1920s by the British, it was rebuilt and is now the main shopping area. Little streets and lanes leading from it offer a great variety of shops and cafes where the continental habit of sitting outdoors to sip coffee  -  even in unpredictable Irish weather  -  has developed.  Street music is a very common accompaniment, and you’ll find this lifestyle, in particular, around the area of Paul Street, Carey’s Lane and Frenchchurch Street, which form the Huguenot quarter, marking the spot where Huguenot’s settled after fleeing religious persecution in France.

On nearby Emmet Place is the Crawford Art Gallery, one of a number of arts institutions that has helped to establish Cork as a reputable centre for culture. Right next door is the Cork Opera House, whose programme of events ranges from opera to straight plays, to concerts and musicals during spring, autumn and winter.

Heading north from there across St. Patrick’s Bridge takes you, within two minutes, to the foot of the steepest road in Cork, St Patrick’s Hill. If you’re fit, it’s worth the climb for the fabulous panoramic view of the city. Not feeling quite so energetic? Then stop at the lower end of the hill, called Bridge Street, and enjoy what this reviewer believes to be the best cup of coffee in Cork, at Cork Coffee Roasters. If you find the queue is out the door, join it, as it moves incredibly quickly, and by the time you get to the counter, there will be a seat for you to rest your legs.

Around the corner from here, you’ll find the Everyman Palace Theatre, with an excellent programme of plays staged throughout the year, many of which are Irish written and produced. Also nearby, on Coburg Street, is The Corner House pub, noted for it's excellent music sessions.

No visit to Cork is complete without climbing yet another hill, to St Anne’s Church, better known as Shandon Steeple, which is about a kilometre west of St Patrick’s Hill. Here you can get another great view of Cork, and can play a tune on its system of bells, to be heard all over the city.

Just a few steps away on Chapel Street, is an intriguing arts project called The Guest House.

For anyone visiting Cork who would like to meet artists working in the city, lunches are held here twice a week. 20 or 30 guests are cooked for by a “host”, and bring with them a food donation that contributes towards the next event. Lunch is followed by a talk and then a performance. Well worth checking out if a close interface with artists in a social setting is your thing.

While on that side of town, a 15 minute walk to stretch the legs will take you along Western Road towards the university. As you go, keep an eye out on the right for Cafe Paradiso, a renowned restaurant in the city and beyond. It serves vegetarian food only, but such is its reputation for quality and innovation, that non-vegetarians also frequent it.

On reaching the university, the first building you’ll meet is the Glucksman Gallery. Its award winning design houses a gallery for contemporary art, but even if contemporary art is not your thing, visiting for the building’s sake is recommended.

Return to the city centre by way of College Road, on the southern end of the campus. On the way, you can take in the beautiful St. Finnbarr’s Cathedral and study the history of Cork. After that, head east to South Gate Bridge where you’ll cross the River Lee and make a visit to the Beamish & Crawford Brewery. Here you can learn the story of Cork’s stout-making tradition, and indulge in a little tipple.

Summertime sees a happy glut of festivals and musical events that brings another dimension to evening and night-life in Cork. The annual Mid-Summer Festival spreads a web of performances across the city, many of which are outdoors and are guaranteed to ensnare you.

How to get to Cork

The city is serviced by Cork International Airport with flights daily to and from Dublin, Britain and other European destinations. These can cost as little as €30 return but as much as €250, depending on when you book. A bus (€6) and taxi service (approx. €16) will get you into Cork city in 15-20 minutes.

An excellent train service runs every hour between Cork and Dublin, making connections with Limerick on the way, and trundling through some lovely countryside on the two and three quarter hour journey. Return tickets with a pre-booked seat can be as little as €20 when booked on-line.

Hiring a car is completely unnecessary if you want to restrict your sight-seeing to the city. Comfortable shoes are all that’s required, but if you wish to extend your visit into the county of Cork, then you will be dependent on bus services that may only run once or twice a day and can therefore eat into your holiday time. Car hire is worth considering if you wish to travel further afield.

Where to stay

Hotels, guest houses and B&Bs in the city are plentiful. Websites such as www.corktourist.com and www.city-guide.ie  provide good listings on facilities and locations.

Useful websites

Flights: www.airlingus.com

Train travel: www.irishrail.ie

Bus travel: www.aircoach.ie

Arts: www.glucksman.org

www.crawfordartgallery.ie

www.guesthouse.ie

www.corkoperahouse.ie

www.everymanpalace.ie

 

Accommodation:

www.corktourist.com

www.city-guide.ie